Just as every woman cannot be a fashion model or ever guy a professional star athlete, not every city in Europe can be as charming as the big name Euro cities like Amsterdam, Munich, Paris, Vienna, Rome or Dubrovnik. When I first started to research Tirana, I nearly always came upon the words: dirty, filthy, a mess, chaotic, nothing to do…best to skip. I am never one to believe everything I read and hear, preferring to let my actual impressions speak for themselves and be the judge. What I found was a city full of life, energy, color and kindness.

As is the case with every big city, the nation’s capital does have an edgy side to it, where one can easily make sweeping generalizations that feed into the stereotype. However, once you start to feel the vibe of the city,and dig just a bit below the surface those stereotypes melt away faster than an ice cream cone on a hot summer’s day in Tirana!

If I were to have to frame Tirana in terms of taste, I would classify it as an “acquired taste”. This type of taste is evident by its buildings. If one has ever visited a socialist nation or ex USSR nation, they can fully attest to the plentifulness of ugly, gray, gritty and drab blocks of buildings devoid of any type of charm. And, unfortunately Tirana is no exception to the rule. However, in the late 90s and 2000s, in an attempt to literally brighten the city up and set it apart from other gray drab Eastern European cities, the then mayor of Tirana, now prime minister, embarked on a mission; to make Tirana stand apart from the others.

To accomplish this goal, the city would invest a large chunk of money into painting beautiful street murals on the side of apartment buildings and covering many buildings in bright pastel colors. While many derided this brightening of the city as a type of gimmicky, over the top like stunt, many (including myself) see it as not only creative, but a brilliant solution to a problem that is not very easily solved. Besides razing thousands of apartment blocks and buildings, thus displacing countless residents, what can a city do? Well…..Tirana answered this question by making most of the cards they were dealt……by…..as the old saying goes….”making chicken shit in to chicken salad.”

However, if walking around the center looking at colorful pastel buildings and 60 meter tall street murals are not your thing, then you may want to consider indulging in the café scene! Just as there is no shortage of gray drab concrete blocks (despite the efforts to brighten them up), there also is no shortage of amazing cafes to choose from. Whether you like a simple, macchiato, espresso, or Turkish coffee or prefer to try something a bit more upscale, like a cappuccino arabica, your options are endless…

The culinary scene in Tirana is also something not to be missed! Whatever type of food you desire, Tirana has an answer. If you like Greek street food, try the many fast food restaurants on nearly every block. But, DO NOT mistake the word “fast food” to meaning McDonalds or Taco Bell. The fast food here in Tirana is delicious, fresh and healthy. My personal favorite is the Sufflaqe, the Albanian name for Greek souvlaki (gyros). This delicious delicacy is divine, consisting of pita bread, fried in olive oil, stuffed with chicken or pork, salad greens and smothered in Tzatziki sauce, topped off with French fries. Another must try while in Albania or The Balkans in general, is byrek or as its known in other nations, burek…This treat is to die for…..Burek usually is a deep fried like pie containing cheese, meat or spinach inside. But don’t even think of having byrek without sour milk or yogurt, which serves as a wonderful addition to the savory pie. Best of all these foods won’t break your budget, rarely setting you back 3€!

For more high end restaurants and culinary choice, try the area around Tirana Castle in the heart of the center. This recently restored Byzantine remnant serves up a wonderful choice of restaurants for anyone and everyone. Whether you want a quick bite to eat at a café or a more upscale experience, you can find it all behind and around the walls of this beautiful ancient fortress.

If you enjoy shopping, then Tirana Castle also provides one with some wonderful shopping experiences to suit any and every taste. Outside the 6M tall walls of the fortress you can find other great shopping options, like DeFacto or Waikiki, which are both low budget, fast fashion brands like H&M. If you prefer a bit more upscale, there are countless boutiques on every street corner. For those that desire high end luxury goods, you also will find a wide variety of shopping options in the center, where there is no shortage of items ranging from designer handbags to watches to that perfect outfit you have been looking for. And, don’t forget about, souvenir shopping. For the best deals, hit the Old Bazar, a treasure chest full of trinkets, vintage like souvenirs and anything else your heart desires.

Not into shopping, food or coffee? Then, visit Bunk’art 1 and 2. Both of these now defunct bunkers serve as museums dedicated to the brutal communist rule of Enver Hoxha. Here you learn about life in Albania before it opened its doors to the world in the 1990s. This is definitely a must see if you are a lover of 20th century history and events. Bunk’art 2 is located just a few meters off Skanderberg Square. Bunk’art 1 is several kilometers outside the city center and can easily be reached by taxi for a very small price. Also worth checking out is The National History Museum, where you can learn about Albania’s history dating back to ancient times. If you would prefer to squeeze in some beach time, then hop a bus or take a taxi out to the beach city of Durres. Located 36 km west of the city Durres is Albania’s second largest city, next to Tirana. If you’re more a mountain person, then Dajti Express Cable Car (best combined with a tour to Bunk’art 1 since they are located within approximately one kilometer of one another) is your ticket to the beautiful mountains that surround the capital. The cablecar ride takes around 15 minutes and costs 8€, operating all days except for Tuesday.

Whether it is shopping in the bazars, sitting in the cafes for hours on end while drinking incredible coffee and walking the colorful streets, all while the afternoon call to prayer reverberates off the concrete jungle of Tirana, this city of approximately 512,000 quickly becomes addictive.While it may not instantly take your breath away like many European cities, if you give it time and a bit of energy, you will not be disappointed! And, once you’re hooked, there is no going back! You’ve been warned! 🙀