LIVING ON THE EDGE!

I have always been a bit different! In pre-school, much to my mom’s horror, while all the children marched one way, I took it upon myself to march in a different direction. Every day in kindergarten my mom anxiously awaited daily reports from my teacher, Mrs. Tuller, on whether I’d been a good kid or a bad kid. In the early 80s, there was no type of gray area or acceptance of differences, either you were a follower or a “good kid”, someone who strictly obeyed all the rules and never questioned or flaunted them in any form, or you were an outcast, rebel, problem child. And, sure enough most days, I was the latter…a problem child…

As I grew up, I continued my independent streak, rarely straying far from my wild nature. In spring of my 8th grade year when it came time to sit down with my “guidance counselors” to discuss my transition from middle school to high school, I expressed my wish to take Russian language starting in 9th grade…..My end goal was not to necessarily learn the language, but to be able to travel to the Soviet Union, a privilege afforded only to those in the Bellevue High School Russian language program. What could be more exotic than visiting, in the words of President Reagan, “The Evil Empire”?

After receiving an F in 8th grade Spanish, my counselors thought I must be joking, akin to academic suicide….They said no way….If I could not pass an easy language like Spanish, how would I be able to learn a language with a different alphabet, a grammatical system that is to say the least daunting and verb endings that will make you scream!? My mother, who to the day she died was my biggest advocate, begged and pleaded with the counselors to give me a chance. They compromised! Two weeks to prove myself, then once I failed miserably, they’d pull my ass right out of Russian and prove their point…..that someone like me had no chance of passing one of the more difficult languages in the world.

Well……that two weeks came and went! I never looked back! Now, 32 years later, countless years worth of perfect marks in Russian language, a degree in Slavic languages and lit from one of the world’s most prestigious universities, the University of Washington and 16 trips to Russia, where I crisscrossed the nation from coast to coast by train 3 times by myself, I was going strong….Nothing could stop me! As the old Queen song goes:

(Don’t stop me now)

‘Cause I’m having a good time (hey, hey)

(Don’t stop me now)

Yes, I’m havin’ a good time

I don’t want to stop at all

And, I did not want to stop…I was bouncing back and forth between the US and Russia, I had just returned from an amazing trip to Paris to meet up with my best friend from Russia….NOTHING was going stop me….I was having the time of my life…..That is…..until…..COVID hit….Just as I put the finishing touches on my 17th trip to Russia…, the world shut down…And bit by bit my trip evaporated before my very eyes!!! I tried to plan a trip to Canada, but only days after booking my favorite retreat on a small island off of Vancouver Island, Canada abruptly closed their borders….

Everything was shut down…and then…the unthinkable happened…..my mom wound up in a nursing home after falling on the stairs in our house, eventually passing away in the hospital. I had gone from flying high to a flaming burning crash. I was paralyzed in grief… Mom was my life, my job, my everything. We were a team and now I was all alone. The twin pillars of my life, my mom and travel suddenly came crashing down. And with every passing day came more chicken shit covid rules….. The last straw for me were mask mandates…After the trauma of having to wear a mask in the hospital complete with full blown draconian PPE gear in order to see my mom die, there was no way I could wear a mask everywhere. I felt trapped….

And just like in pre-school, where I marched to the beat of my own drummer, history repeated itself! I was not going to be the typical American and “stay home and stay safe” binging on Netflix while having virtual zoom watch parties…FUCK THAT!!! The virus could come get me!! I just lost my mom so I was in no mood to follow the sheep over a cliff. I was way too restless! I rarely traveled domestically so the thought of traveling the US was foreign to me….but I had to find a way to get out of my state…

Snoqualmie Falls, Washington…famous for being featured in Twin Peaks

I attempted to find satisfaction in day trips around my area, but it just could not quench my unrelenting desire to travel. Finally after days of thinking, I came up with an answer!!! Idaho!!!!! The state was fully open and next door, Montana, after being closed for COVID, was opening its doors to the public on June 1st. No masks, no capacity controls, no quarantine, no nothing….I quickly arranged with my very reluctant pet sitter (who was the polar opposite of me) to take care of my pets. I gassed up the car, threw everything I needed into a bag and tore the hell out of corona prison…Only problem…..Idaho was 4+ hours away…..I’d have to stop for gas and something to eat and drink at some point….

I planned my route carefully to avoid the large cities where they were mask crazy, instead choosing to gas up in small towns where covid measures were treated as a joke. I pulled off about half way to Idaho in the town of Moses Lake, a rather medium sized small agriculture based city with conservative leanings. I don’t like conservative politics, having voted for Democrats my entire life, but at this point as the old saying goes, “beggars can’t be choosers”! And I was a beggar!!

There were signs at the door of the mini mart requiring people to wear a mask, but most chose to ignore them and went in anyways. The clerks at the mini mart likely were in no mood to argue with some burly bearded red neck dude In cowboy boots with a loaded rifle tucked behind him about wearing a face diaper. This was true “red neck” country a far cry from Seattle, where being caught maskless anywhere, was akin to murder and would get you at very least a very, very mean scowl and at worst a muffled diatribe on why you were a selfish loser.. I grabbed a Coke and a beef jerky and was on my way….Next stop….Freedom!!!

Top: Moses Lake Half Sun Travel Plaza Bottom: Vantage, Washington, halfway to Idaho!

After two hours plus of driving through flat boring monotonous badlands terrain, off in the distance like a mirage in the desert, appeared a blue sign with white writing that READ…….. “WELCOME TO IDAHO, FAMOUS POTATOES”…..or in my world….FREEDOM! When I crossed this imaginary line, a certain feeling of relief came over me. I felt like a fugitive who had escaped a maximum security prison. But in this case, my home, where loneliness, grief, sadness, helplessness and hopelessness all were eating away at me…..had become a prison of sorts…

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Europe’s Middle Child

Sandwiched between Paris and Amsterdam, Brussels, is like the middle child of Europe, often excluded, ignored, and/or neglected. Amsterdam has weed, hookers in the windows (although I guess most towns in Belgium have some type of red light district), canals, windmills, Ann Frank’s House, etc… Paris has the Eiffel Tower, Mona Lisa, Norte Dame Cathedral and so much more…..

Brussels….Umm…..Well….uuuhhh…..Mannekin Pis anyone? Brussels (the location of the European Union government) is often characterized by Anti-EU forces as a place devoid of anything interesting and that its existence is only thanks to bureaucrats whose sole purpose is it to make up stupid, pointless, mindless rules and regulations to impose on other EU states. Some do stop over on their way to Paris from Amsterdam or vice versa, but most just see it from their seat of the high speed train from Amsterdam to Paris!

EU Flag and Manneken Pis and Stephie looking forward to Brussels

The good news is Brussels is easy to reach, and is served by most major European airlines and a handful of western airlines. The airport has served as a life line to people like me who were desperate to avoid the absolute cluster fuck that is happening up north at Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport. Schiphol (or as locals call it ‘Shithole) has been plagued by strikes, thousands upon thousands of lost luggage, 6+ hour lines just to get into the building and understaffing. Meanwhile, at Brussels Airport, I was able to get into the building with zero wait and only waited 30 seconds in security. In case you’re weary of going through any of the other big European airports, the capital is well connected with all major Western European cities by rail. Best of all, Central Station is right in the center making it easy to get to wherever you need in Brussels.

Besides Brussel’s most famous (for better or for worse) landmark, the 55.5CM tall Mannekin Pis, what is there to do? If you’re a fashion diva like myself, then head to the shopping streets of Bruxelles, such as Dansaert Street in the center. Here and throughout the city you can find everything and/or anything your inner fashionista desires. Of course you will find the big name chains like Zara, H&M, Louis Vuitton, etc., but instead of shopping at these generic overpriced labels, hit up some of the second hand shops, especially the unique 2nd hand vintage store, Melting Kilo. Melting Kilo subscribes to a different concept than most stores in the world. Instead of paying for an item individually, you pay for clothes by the kilo! WOW! What a concept! So, be sure to have plenty of room in your suitcase or buy a new bag if you go shopping here. Melting Pot Kilo has two locations: the first one is on Rue Haute and the other is located on Rue des Poissonniers.

If you would rather shop at a big name luxury shop, get off at the Louise metro stop near justice palace. This are is known as the fashion flagship street with hermes and Louis Vuitton

In case you are bit more budget conscious, Porte de Namur street is home to cheaper shops like Primark. Primark can also be found in the center but according to Silva (which I can personally attest to), this area is quite chaotic and very crowded. So it would be best to stick to Porte de Namur street.

If fashion is not your thing, then dive into the world of the 9th art, comics. Many look down on this art form as childish, foolish and unworthy of being in the same universe as the other 8 forms of art, i.e. literature, music, sculptures, paintings etc…. But when you start to learn more about these famous French/Belgian comics (as I did when I went on a fashion walk around Brussels with a local photographer) you understand they are far from funny, light, airy childish cartoons, but rather works of art with deep story lines, meanings and symbolism that will challenge your thinking and give you a perspective on the vision of the world and foreign countries as seen by Belgians….Belgian comics are so ingrained in the culture that throughout the city you can find dozens of street murals dedicated to such famous comics as: The Smurfs, Spike and Suzy, The Adventures of Tin Tin along with dozens of other Franco-Belgian comics.

If you really want the full comic book experience, you can book a comic book walking tour in the city. One of the tours is led by my friend and photographer, Silva, who is a master photographer and has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to French Belgian comics . After your walk, go the Comics Art Museum for a look and when you have finished, go next door to “The Reading Room” where you will find a collection of over 3,000 comic albums translated into 36 different languages. Admission is free upon presentation of a ticket to the museum or €0.50 in case you would prefer to only visit “The Reading Room”. Both The Reading Room and Belgium Comic Strip Center Museum are located at Rue des Sables 20 and open every day from 10AM – 18.00. Reservations are recommended but not mandatory.

Having lived in Croatia and other Balkan states for the past several months, I became accustomed to a rather homogenous population, in other words, mostly all white European Croatians, with some Bosniak Muslims sprinkled in. However, Brussels is an entirely different experience! It is the polar opposite, serving as a melting pot for the world and EU. Thousands of nationalities are represented in the capital and thus along with such a wide variety of ethnicities, you will find an amazing assortment of ethnic cuisines. According to my friend and photographer Silva, who has lived in Brussels for several years, the best ethnic food is always found in that community’s neighborhood. For example, Silva is Finnish, and stated there is the Finnish sea men church: Merimieskirkko near Maalbeek, which offers amazing Finnish food. If you haven’t tried Finnish cinnamon rolls, then you have not lived!! If you want to indulge in African culture and cuisine, best to visit Matonge, an eclectic mix of African culture and Belgian Boheme. If you are in the mood for Chinese culture and cuisine, the area of Dansaert has a bit of a Chinatown with an asian influence to it. For Brazilian culture, Schaarbeek is the place for a full cultural experience.

Brussels also has a very large Arab influence, thus you will find plenty of restaurants that cater to the Muslim community and the different nationalities. Probably the largest Arab/Islamic community in the city is the Moroccans. Due to its sizable population you can easily immerse yourself in the culture and find quality Moroccan cuisine. In the area of St. Catherine there is a very good Ethiopian place nearby, which was recommended by Silva. In Brussels you don’t have go very far outside the pentagon or the city center to find all these different cuisines. Most can be found within a kilometer radius, so if you are a foodie and live to eat, then Brussels is a dream come true… The only downside is that with such endless options, it’ll be hard to determine where to eat.

After enjoying some ethnic cuisine, it’s time for dessert!!! You will be in awe by the amazing sweets and temptations that await you on the streets of Bruxelles, especially the Belgian chocolate, the fries and the chocolate waffles with an unending assortment of toppings. In other words if you love sweets and chocolate, Bruxelles is an absolute dreamland of sinful comfort food that has the power to break the will power of any person! It took all my willpower to resist not indulging in all these wonderful delights, especially when you see every man, woman, child and baby walking around the city with either an ice cream cone, a Belgian waffle bathed in chocolate topped off with whip cream and strawberries or indulging in other type of culinary delight. Be careful 🙃!!

Every city has its key landmark, and Brussels is no exception! In my opinion and in the opinion of the thousands of other tourists gathered, the most amazing and beautiful attraction in Brussels, is the city’s central square, “Grand Palace”, which in the words of Silva, resembles Disneyland. However, unlike Disneyland, which is fake, built in the mid 20th century and will cost a fortune to enter, entry to “The Grand Palace” square is free and the buildings are authentic!

The square is encircled with Baroque Guildhalls and contains the over the top flamboyant city hall and the neo-gothic king’s house or Bread House. Here you will find large crowds and countless places to eat, but do not let the crowds intimidate you as you can easily move through the crowds and capture some good pictures, like we did. You simply need to look in the right places. During mid-August The Grand Palace’s beauty shines even brighter when the city rolls out the flower carpet. I have been told by locals that this an unforgettable experience. Unfortunately, I missed this grand tradition by only a few days.

Grand Palace Square! MERCI MADAME SILVA for the amazing photos!!!

Another quirky odd aspect of Brussels is………pissing…that’s right…peeing. Here you will of course find the most famous little peeing man on the planet, the fountain, Manneken Pis, standing a whole 55.5 centimeters tall peeing into a pool. You can’t miss him as hundred upon hundreds of tourists gather to see him. During certain times of the year he is dressed in different costumes, which are on display for the general public at the Brussels City Museum. Millions of replicas and even street murals of this little man can be found in every single tourist shop and even at my hotel dining room they had a little replica on top of the salad bar. Due to his legendary status and being the symbol of Brussels, he has been the frequent victim of theft, vandalism and other heinous acts. Thus, the original(s) now can be found in a nearby city museum, whereas the current sculpture is from the 80s.

But…..wait…there’s more!! In case you are not fond of Monsieur Pis, just down the street you can find his peeing sister, Jeanneke Pis. And whatever you do, do not forget about their pet, zinneke pissing dog.

If you would rather not waste your time pissing around or watching a tiny sculpture piss into a pool, take the metro to the southern part of the pentagon (the name for the center) and take a ride on The View Belgium. This wonderful Ferris Wheel has amazing views and countless opportunities for great photos. Nearby the wheel you will find some of Brussels most beautiful buildings such as: The Royal Palace of Brussels (temporarily closed but used to be open during summer and Brussels law courts.

Right in front of the Ferris wheel is Place Poelart, named after the famous architect Poelart who designed Justice Palace. Here you are treated to an amazing view point panorama of Brussels and Halle Gate. Unfortunately, The Law Courts of Brussels is under scaffolding but is still a sight to see…

If you would rather be the one pissing instead of Monsieur Pis, there is a very unique place where you can unzip and let it flow! Just off Grand-Palace is Place Sainte-Catherine, or Church of St. Catherine. There lined up against the church wall stands a half dozen urinals where one can literally piss against a church. It’s free and may be rather therapeutic for those of you men who dislike religion or would just like to say you pissed against a church. Gross, profound, satisfying, sinful, artistic, disgusting, whatever your feelings, it is one of the more unique things about Brussels.

St. Catherine’s Church

There are so many things to do in Brussels it is challenging to condense all of it into one article. However, do not fall into the same trap as I did or countless others do who think there is nothing to see in Brussels and it’s best just to skip. But as I always like to say we live and we learn. I certainly have learned a valuable lesson and that is don’t always assume, and always keep an open mind, because stereotypes are just that, baseless nonsensical sweeping generalizations. Stay stylish and enjoy everything this grand city has to offer!!!!! Au Revoir!

Posted on 11/08/202212/08/2022 in travel

Why Aldoren??

When you need your teeth fixed you go to a dentist!When your car breaks down, you go to a mechanic, When you have a legal dispute, you go to a lawyer, but WHY when it comes to planning your precious time off and adventure of a lifetime would you rely upon social media when you need travel advice???

My late grandma, Aldoren. In this pic she is 93.5. Only months later she passed away. Beautiful to the day she died.

Everyone these days thinks they are a travel expert, especially with the advent of social media! Many of these so-called “travel experts” base their Balkan expertise on a three week trip to Croatia , a ten second reel they created in under five minutes with photos from their trip to Hvar Island or the fact they love to travel. That is great if you just want to visit two or three places and do the cliche things such as day cruises, fancy dinners, kayaking and waterfall excursions.

I on the other hand have 30+ years of solo travel experience! I have visited 61 nations, and for the past year been living, traveling and working in The Balkans building a travel business centered on The Balkans! I have spent a year in the field, meeting people, networking, researching, finding those who can help clients and learning the language.

I come from a family of travelers. My grandfather was a retired United Airline pilot and traveled to the day he died embarking on some of the most boldest adventures one could ever imagine, like tipping both sides of an airplane into Russian airspace during the height of the Cold War so his passengers could say they had “been in Russia”or being met by armed guards upon landing in Cuba only hours after Fidel Castro overthrew the American based government.

My latest grandfather:
Captain Russell H. Stephens of United Airlines 💙🧡

My mom up until age 18 traveled to some of the utmost exotic places in the world with her family. Travel outside the US in the 1950s and 60s was akin to space travel today, something very rare and reserved for only the utmost elite.

I am following in my family’s footsteps! My grandfather used to spend hours locked away in his office researching new travel destinations. Instead of a laptop and internet he had several rooms stuffed full of travel brochures, newspapers of past, magazines, airline schedules and so much more. His form of communication? Not email or text or social media. All he needed was his telephone, typewriter, an envelope and a stamp.

I am the carbon copy of him! But instead of sitting in my home office, I sit in cafes, hotel rooms restaurants, trams, boats, airplanes, airports, etc researching. The knowledge I acquire usually leads locals to wonder how I know so much about their nation. I don’t take my job as a travel advisor lightly.

Examining the menu at Hilton Podgorica

A client of mine from Almere, Netherlands stated “When you go somewhere you dive deep into it. You make real connections to people living there, you learn about the history and politics going on, you learn about religion and demographics. You’re not like any other tourist.“

Through trial and error I have the knowledge, I have the passion and most of all I have the experience to customize a tour SPECIALLY tailored to your needs, your love, your passion!!! Enjoy outdoor adventure? I have a colleague in Ohrid, Macedonia 🇲🇰 who can arrange some amazing places to connect with nature..

Above: My colleague, Naumka, in Lake Ohrid, Macedonia. She is a top rate certified guide, who posses an impeccable ability to connect with guests one on one. She is not your average tour guide! She makes you feel connected with the culture. And, she is master at choreography! We spent a beautiful morning touring beautiful Ohrid and to this day I still have nothing but fond memories. I can’t wait to introduce you to her. Better yet, she speaks Spanish so choose your language 🥰!!

Want an epic digital detox? My colleague in Albania can arrange for you to live and work as a Shepard in a small village in The Albanian Alps.

Or how about Kosovo?? Many people have heard about this tiny nation but know little about its amazing history and culture! My colleague in Prishtinë would be delighted to help you discover his homeland.

Nothing is too small for us! If after a long hot emotionally and physically draining day on the streets of Sarajevo, how about some spa time? I can arrange a spa day at the beautiful Ma’ab Spa in the hills of Sarajevo. The owner of the spa, Alma, is an amazing lady, who would be more than happy to sit down with you and discuss exactly what type of treatment works best for you! Besides the heavenly services offered, you’re also afforded an incredible view of the city from their parking lot. And you will love the wonderful art work displayed throughout this peaceful sanctuary.

The Balkans is an amazing area of the world! Why go to Italy and wait in line for five hours just so you can get a 10 second look at the worlds most famous penis, i.e David? Besides the fact you can post to social media that quick selfie you got and brag about the fact you saw “David’s penis”, what do you have to gain?? That selfie you got is a nice sugar high but that cultural experience I arranged for you in Kosovo will have much more staying power.

Why not take the road less traveled and indulge in a satisfying and interesting adventure?? Many call me the ambassador to The Balkans! I am your personal ambassador to The Balkans! I am here to be that bridge that will take you to places unimaginable!! I won’t take you part of the way, I will take you all the way. My name is Stephenie and I can’t wait to help you plan your adventure on the roads less traveled. Aldoren Travel is your passport to adventure!

Posted on 02/08/202212/08/2022 in Uncategorized

Colorful Tirana

Some of the many murals that dot the urban landscape of Tirana

Just as every woman cannot be a fashion model or ever guy a professional star athlete, not every city in Europe can be as charming as the big name Euro cities like Amsterdam, Munich, Paris, Vienna, Rome or Dubrovnik. When I first started to research Tirana, I nearly always came upon the words: dirty, filthy, a mess, chaotic, nothing to do…best to skip. I am never one to believe everything I read and hear, preferring to let my actual impressions speak for themselves and be the judge. What I found was a city full of life, energy, color and kindness.

As is the case with every big city, the nation’s capital does have an edgy side to it, where one can easily make sweeping generalizations that feed into the stereotype. However, once you start to feel the vibe of the city,and dig just a bit below the surface those stereotypes melt away faster than an ice cream cone on a hot summer’s day in Tirana!

If I were to have to frame Tirana in terms of taste, I would classify it as an “acquired taste”. This type of taste is evident by its buildings. If one has ever visited a socialist nation or ex USSR nation, they can fully attest to the plentifulness of ugly, gray, gritty and drab blocks of buildings devoid of any type of charm. And, unfortunately Tirana is no exception to the rule. However, in the late 90s and 2000s, in an attempt to literally brighten the city up and set it apart from other gray drab Eastern European cities, the then mayor of Tirana, now prime minister, embarked on a mission; to make Tirana stand apart from the others.

To accomplish this goal, the city would invest a large chunk of money into painting beautiful street murals on the side of apartment buildings and covering many buildings in bright pastel colors. While many derided this brightening of the city as a type of gimmicky, over the top like stunt, many (including myself) see it as not only creative, but a brilliant solution to a problem that is not very easily solved. Besides razing thousands of apartment blocks and buildings, thus displacing countless residents, what can a city do? Well…..Tirana answered this question by making most of the cards they were dealt……by…..as the old saying goes….”making chicken shit in to chicken salad.”

However, if walking around the center looking at colorful pastel buildings and 60 meter tall street murals are not your thing, then you may want to consider indulging in the café scene! Just as there is no shortage of gray drab concrete blocks (despite the efforts to brighten them up), there also is no shortage of amazing cafes to choose from. Whether you like a simple, macchiato, espresso, or Turkish coffee or prefer to try something a bit more upscale, like a cappuccino arabica, your options are endless…

Unlike in some European cities like Amsterdam, a cappuccino, bowl of dark chocolate ice cream, won’t break the bank! I paid about 510 LEKES or barley €4.30 for this delicacy.

The culinary scene in Tirana is also something not to be missed! Whatever type of food you desire, Tirana has an answer. If you like Greek street food, try the many fast food restaurants on nearly every block. But, DO NOT mistake the word “fast food” to meaning McDonalds or Taco Bell. The fast food here in Tirana is delicious, fresh and healthy. My personal favorite is the Sufflaqe, the Albanian name for Greek souvlaki (gyros). This delicious delicacy is divine, consisting of pita bread, fried in olive oil, stuffed with chicken or pork, salad greens and smothered in Tzatziki sauce, topped off with French fries. Another must try while in Albania or The Balkans in general, is byrek or as its known in other nations, burek…This treat is to die for…..Burek usually is a deep fried like pie containing cheese, meat or spinach inside. But don’t even think of having byrek without sour milk or yogurt, which serves as a wonderful addition to the savory pie. Best of all these foods won’t break your budget, rarely setting you back 3€!

For more high end restaurants and culinary choice, try the area around Tirana Castle in the heart of the center. This recently restored Byzantine remnant serves up a wonderful choice of restaurants for anyone and everyone. Whether you want a quick bite to eat at a café or a more upscale experience, you can find it all behind and around the walls of this beautiful ancient fortress.

A quick tour around Tirana Castle

If you enjoy shopping, then Tirana Castle also provides one with some wonderful shopping experiences to suit any and every taste. Outside the 6M tall walls of the fortress you can find other great shopping options, like DeFacto or Waikiki, which are both low budget, fast fashion brands like H&M. If you prefer a bit more upscale, there are countless boutiques on every street corner. For those that desire high end luxury goods, you also will find a wide variety of shopping options in the center, where there is no shortage of items ranging from designer handbags to watches to that perfect outfit you have been looking for. And, don’t forget about, souvenir shopping. For the best deals, hit the Old Bazar, a treasure chest full of trinkets, vintage like souvenirs and anything else your heart desires.

Not into shopping, food or coffee? Then, visit Bunk’art 1 and 2. Both of these now defunct bunkers serve as museums dedicated to the brutal communist rule of Enver Hoxha. Here you learn about life in Albania before it opened its doors to the world in the 1990s. This is definitely a must see if you are a lover of 20th century history and events. Bunk’art 2 is located just a few meters off Skanderberg Square. Bunk’art 1 is several kilometers outside the city center and can easily be reached by taxi for a very small price. Also worth checking out is The National History Museum, where you can learn about Albania’s history dating back to ancient times. If you would prefer to squeeze in some beach time, then hop a bus or take a taxi out to the beach city of Durres. Located 36 km west of the city Durres is Albania’s second largest city, next to Tirana. If you’re more a mountain person, then Dajti Express Cable Car (best combined with a tour to Bunk’art 1 since they are located within approximately one kilometer of one another) is your ticket to the beautiful mountains that surround the capital. The cablecar ride takes around 15 minutes and costs 8€, operating all days except for Tuesday.

Whether it is shopping in the bazars, sitting in the cafes for hours on end while drinking incredible coffee and walking the colorful streets, all while the afternoon call to prayer reverberates off the concrete jungle of Tirana, this city of approximately 512,000 quickly becomes addictive.While it may not instantly take your breath away like many European cities, if you give it time and a bit of energy, you will not be disappointed! And, once you’re hooked, there is no going back! You’ve been warned! 🙀

The capital of Albania, Tirana. If you would like to visit Tirana and need some expert help, I am happy to help. Visit aldoren.com to start planning your trip today. Or email me at: stephie@aldoren.com

Posted on 08/06/202212/08/2022 in Uncategorized

Mala

Every AirBnB I have been to in The Balkans has had something unique to it, something that sets it apart from others, a wow factor so to speak! For example there was the AirBnB I stayed at in the city of Novi Sad in Serbia which was located underground and contained a personal spa tricked out with a hot tub and sauna complete with a giant UltraHD 4K TV!

Other AirBnBs, especially along the coast of Croatia, came with bottles of finely aged wine. And then there were the AirBnBs which had views that were to die for, like in Split, Croatia, where I had an amazing view of the sea, the mountains and the harbor. While I loved all the incredible airbnbs, nothing could compare to the special perk I got at Marko’s Place in the Montenegrin pirate town of Ulcinj or in Albanian Ulqinj!

This place was in a league of its own, as it had its own personal security system and a companion to go along with it. This special perk came in the form of ….,a golden retriever by the name of Mala….which means small in Montenegrin. However, Mala, who belonged to my AirBnB hosts, Daniela and Marko, was far from small in both stature and in might. She had an incredible personality, kind loving, and sweet.. Yet at the same time, she was tough, but fair, barking fiercely at strangers who other animals who may stray near Marko’s plus. Yet at the same time letting her guests come and go without much fuss over pets, belly rubs or treats.

During my week plus stay in Ulcinj, I always could count on Mala being around somewhere, even if she was not front and center on my terrace. However, in what many may say is typical of Montenegrins, (who unfairly or not have a reputation of being lazy), she was prone to taking time off, choosing to split her time between the local neighborhood, guest units on the ground level and the upper units,where I lived.

The times she was absent when things went really out of control. One night when I was sitting on the sofa watching TV I glanced over at my glass door and to my horror there standing staring at me through the glass window was a pepping Tom…..a four legged tom cat that is….He came back several other nights likely looking for some hand outs. I guess Mala could not be on duty 24/7.

But the peeping Tom was not the most disturbing part! The most disturbing part was when I suddenly awoke one morning like Rip Van Winkle and discovered that my week plus stay had vanished before my eyes!!! That evening I would move on to my 59th nation….Albania….. I was eager to explore a new nation….especially Albania since it has a bit of a “reputation” amongst the west.

But that enthusiasm go Albania was dampened some by having to part with Mala. It was going to hurt…And when I got the message from Marko on WhatsApp that the taxi had been called and would be there in a few minutes, my heart sank. With sadness in my heart and soul, i dragged my bag out onto the terrace for Marko to pick up and take up to the street. There sitting in front of me very politely was….Mala…I burst into tears and gave her a big hug goodbye. She returned the hug by about licking my face off. Mala escorted me up the stairs to the road where I waited for my taxi. Without warning…Malo burst out onto the road barking…..

Ahead in the distance was my taxi…..Marco came up to say goodbye, shook my hand and said to me in kind fashion “once our guest, always our guest, have a safe journey”. With those words and tears in my eyes I waived goodbye to Mala, Marko and Daniella. I was on my way….

Although the tears eventually dried, I was still sad…But there was little time for tears, as it was time to focus on my next destination……the quaint northern Albanian city of Shkrodra, an hour over the border.

My driver was Montenegrin and knew little to no English. Since I had been in The Balkans for a long time and thanks to my knowledge of Russian which is also Slavic, I picked up some Montenegrin. Although I was not able to speak clearly, I could understand some of what he said. He asked me if he could pick up one his colleagues who spoke Albanian to assist him when we got over the border since he spoke very poor Albanian. I was unsure just how it would work, but I trusted he knew what he was doing and said sure.

As the light started to wane, we reached a crossroads. Turn right and several kilometers east you are in Albania, turn left and you go west toward the coastal city of Bar. We turned left toward Bar…I knew we had to stop to pick up his colleague but why were we going down a small gravel village road?

Thoughts of my name and face appearing on US news with the headline: “Solo American woman traveling in Montenegro gone missing, last seen near Albanian border” darted through my head. Since I have hardly any contact with people back in the United States and near zero family members I wondered aloud if anyone would even notice I went missing…….We stopped the car and……. . To be continued………..

Posted on 01/06/202212/08/2022 in Uncategorized

And I Love Her!

A priest, a minister and a rabbi walk into a bar……..so goes the old joke! But in Sarajevo, it would be more appropriate to say an Eastern Orthodox priest, a rabbi, a nun, and a young lady in a colorful hijab walk into a cevapi house. My little twist on this age old joke basically summarizes Sarajevo in a nutshell, a city full of such a wide variety of religions and cultures that it is known as The Jerusalem of Europe. Often times you will see a girl in a colorful hijab, passing by a nun, followed by the “original men in black” a term often used jokingly amongst those in the Eastern Orthodox Christians to refer to a priest.

When I first arrived in Sarajevo in September of 2021, I really had no idea what to expect…It was not as if I came to this wonderful city without any type of previous knowledge . Quite the opposite! In 1984 when Sarajevo hosted the Winter Olympics I remember watching with my parents as famous American figure skater Scott Hamilton nailed the gold medal. And I vividly recall the horrible civil war, genocide and the soul crushing 1,425 day siege that Sarajevo suffered at the hands of Serbian nationalists. Even though I had read about it, watched countless hours of documentaries, news, etc….NOTHING COULD PREPARE me for the real thing!!

As soon as I stepped onto the famous pedestrian mall, Ferhadija, the crazy energy of Sarajevo started to reach a fever pitch….The sights, the smells, the feelings, the shock and the sheer POWER and ENERGY of the city all rained down on me like a powerful mid June thunderstorm in the Bosnian capital! I was on maximum sensory overload. Unlike some sensory overloads, this was NOT a bad experience, it was more akin to what I can only describe as a real life hallucinogenic trip. The colors were extreme, the sounds were extreme, the people were extreme, the smells were extreme, the energy was extreme and the sights were extreme….

Having come from Seattle where all the buildings are the same boring cookie cutter mixed use developments and where it seems everyone is either White, Asian or East Indian or homeless, Sarajevo came as a breath of fresh! And after closed borders due to COVID and all the crap surrounding masks and social distancing that make Seattle unbearable, this majestical city was the equivalent of a spa day for the soul …

It felt as if I had gone from black and white grainy film to full color 4K Ultra HD complete with surround sound and smells. Walking down the pedestrian mall, Ferhadija, was like a breath of fresh air! I marveled at the stunning beauty and architecture of the colorful Austro Hungarian buildings that were mixed in with aging gray bullet ridden structures. Approximately one kilometer up the pedestrian mall, the Austro Hungarian buildings suddenly stopped and gave way to an area called Baščaršija, which consists of low rise small shops and mosques in classic ottoman style. The two sides, east and west meet or rather clash at what is known as The Meeting Place of Cultures, where a plaque on the sidewalk clearly delineates the meeting point. In many ways this crossroads is symbolic of Sarajevo, where there is always a tug of war between east and west.

This clash is evident in all parts of Sarajevo daily life especially in the way the women in the city dress. On one end of the spectrum you have full on burqas, then just below that extreme one will see girls dressed in long black robes with a hijab and on the opposite end are girls who in typical Sarajevo style, mix both east and west, dressing in western like clothes but with a hijab. And tmixed into of all of this craziness, you have the ordinary girls who dress just like any other girl would in Europe…..

If the colors were not enough to blow your mind and make your head spin, the sights may just be what totally paralyze all your senses. Within less than 100 meters you can find, four different places of worship…..Occupying the top spot, towering above Ferhadija is the amazing gothic style Catholic Church, Sacred Heart. Across the street, nestled in a rather quiet area of the mall, in amongst trees is the massive 19th century Serbian Orthodox Church, Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos. Sitting only a few meters to the churches right is the classical monument to Ottoman architecture, Ferhadija mosque. And, if 3 places of worship were not enough for to wrap your arms around, just across the river within a 200 meters radius is the very charming Ashkenazi Synagogue, whose interior is decorated in moorish style architecture. Often times during the day, in typical Sarajevo east meets west style, these religions clash in the form of sound!!! The church bells from opposite faiths ring as loudly as they possibly can feverishly competing for air time with the call to prayer from the nearby Ferhadija mosque and all other mosques scattered throughout town…

In case you withstood the previous two sensory overloads, you also will be assaulted with the smells……IF only I could somehow convey smells in words!!! But any attempt to do this would be a great injustice to the “flavor of Sarajevo”. In fact, in Sarajevo, smells are on another plain of existence than say in some ordinary Anytown, USA. You don’t simply “smell” things in Sarajevo, instead………you FEEL THEM!!! In fact, in Russian, my second language, the verb “to smell”, literally translates as: “to feel a smell……” To feel a smell is likely the utmost best way to describe what it is like for your nose to walk through Sarajevo. You feel the smell deeply! You have to feel the unrelenting heat as you pass through Baščaršija, you have to feel the invasive cigarette smoking blowing in your direction at the local coffee house. You have to smell the fruity hookah smoke, the scent of cevapi all mixed in with a hint of Bosnian coffee. Only then can you even begin to feel the smell of Sarajevo.

To say that Sarajevo was love at first site, is just too mild a word…it was more like over the moon at first site…..This instant love was so deep and so quick that as I strolled the streets for the first time, the classic Beatles song, “And I Love Her” stared to play in my mind……I found it a bit odd as I had not listened to or even really heard that song for ages. It’s as if the feeling of Sarajevo was so so deep that it sparked this classic song to pop up from deep inside the musical vaults of my brain…..

As my trip in Sarajevo started to play out, it truly felt in the true philosophical sense that life was imitating art! The second verse of this amazing song, mirrors my feelings perfectly,

She gives my everything

And tenderly

The kiss my lover brings

She brings to me

And I love her

Wow…How could a song nail my feelings any more than this wonderful ballad???

To say Sarajevo gives me everything and tenderly is a gross understatement. The city has given me so much! It has kissed me with its culture, it has given me a perspective on world history, it has given me amazing food. Yet, at the same time just like any relationship, it has been fraught with difficulties. Often times I have experienced great waves of extreme sadness as I see the remnants and reminders of the siege and horrible civil war! This “love of mine” also unwillingly exposes me to cigarette smoke, especially in eating establishments, which are nearly all smoker friendly!! For an American who is not used to cigarette smoke this can pose a real challenge! When you have to choose between either McDonalds or one of the most expensive restaurants in Sarajevo, Klopa, this love can sour a bit. However, just like a couple who has its fights, we always kiss and make up until the next drama.

However, for all its flaws, scars and wounds, I will…….always love it. As the final verse to “And I love Her”, goes:

Bright are the starts that shine

Dark is the sky

I know this love of mine

Will never die

And I love her

And I will always LOVE her, I will always love Sarajevo! Jako volim te drago Sarajevo!! Videmo se….! I love you dear Sarajevo. Till we meet again!

Posted on 01/06/202212/08/2022 in travel

Part II: Controlled Anarchy

So….where were we in our story?? Oh yes…the part where we stopped the car….………

We stopped the car at the end of the gravel road and standing there was our Albanian language wingman/co pilot. After a few words and hand shakes, we retraced our steps and turned east toward the Albanian border.

Once we got there it was odd, there was Montenegrin passport control/customs but no sign of Albanian customs. We just handed our passports over to what seemed like the Montenegro side, but no trace of Albania…Had we even crossed? I had no idea…….that is until my mobile phone connection went dead about 3km east of passport control.

I eventually figured it was safe to put my passport away, but not before I checked for that brand new minted stamp that said Albania. I eagerly opened my passport searching for a fresh new stamp, but nothing….I looked again, no stamp. I carefully examined each stamp, but still no stamp. After ten minutes of searching for the elusive Albanian passport stamp I gave up…after all I did not need a stupid stamp to show I was in Albania…

Although I had no official stamp, and there were no giant signs welcoming me to Albania, it did feel as if things were different. It is hard to pinpoint why I felt this. I can’t explain it really. Maybe it was the roadside mosque with its flashing green lights which somehow appeared to be rhythmically in sync (like one of those home holiday light shows you see during Christmas) with the call to prayer chant billowing from the top of the minarets? Maybe it was the even more insane driving than what I was used to in Montenegro? Whatever it was, no doubt I was…….in the words of Dorothy from The Wizard of Oz “no longer in Kansas”…or Montenegro…..

Ten so minutes into our ride we pulled the car over. It was a bit perplexing…why were we pulling over? Were we picking up someone new? Well…no but that’s for a later part of the story…Co-pilot asked to see my phone so he could check the address of my AirBnB. Luckily, I am not some covid freak who freaks at a person breathing or touching their phone. Actually, once I had a waitress in Las Vegas at The Stratosphere tower restaurant (where I paid $60 for a fancy dinner) who refused to take my picture because restaurant policy “prohibited them from touching people’s phones”. I later learned that was a load of shit when the manager said this policy was phased out months ago. Nonetheless, I had no problem with him taking my phone for a bit. Whatever did the trick…

He looked at my phone and then got out of the car with it asking some random stranger how to find the address. Who needs google maps or navigation when you can just pull over and ask some random person on the side of the road?! They spoke for about two minutes. I had zero knowledge of Albanian but I could obviously tell it was related to directions to my Airbnb. This pattern of stop and ask, continued for another hour at least…..Ok….maybe that is an exaggeration, more like an hour and a half…….In the amount of time it took with our stop and ask stops, we could have easily driven back to Ulcinj and then maybe even to Bar.

I kept wondering why they did not just use google maps or some type of internet…. until it dawned on me that none of us had any internet. Eventually we got near the center and once again co-pilot leapt out of the car with my phone in hand asking for directions. This time he got lucky!! There were several college age girls walking down the street. Unlike most of the passerby’s we asked, they seemed to actually have a clue.

Sensing these girls were a goldmine of information and a ticket to finally offload me at my Airbnb, co-pilot requested one of them to get in the car and guide us. So, in hopped one of the girls. At this point the journey was under new management since co-pilot was literally taking a back seat to college girl. I now would be handing my phone over to her for examination.

She looked at the address and then called the phone number of my host, Nikko. I understood nothing but I did hear the word “tourist” so I knew she was talking about me……Eventually we did find the pedestrian mall and hooked up with my AirBnB host(s), Nikko and his son. Had we not picked up the student, I am convinced we would still be going around Shkroder in circles desperately trying to find my AirBnB.

Many in the US or the west may be reading this and thinking….”how were you not scared”??!! My answer…….is simple……after nearly a year of traveling all The Balkan states and ESPECIALLY in Albania I have come to learn the simple concept and/or mentality that is…. “controlled anarchy”…a term coined by my Albanian tour guide, Genti.

It basically means that however absolutely insanely anarchic things may be, there is some type of logic to it all. In The Balkans, you must throw out all your assumptions about how things work in the west. If you continue to cling to your western rigidity and refuse to accept The Balkans mentality of “controlled anarchy” it will only cause you MASS confusion and distress….

However, I will fully admit and plead guilty to the fact that I often times ignore this rule myself even though I know better.What exactly is this logic and how it is applied? I have yet to really learn! But to say the least I was happy to be at my AirBnB and to have left the controlled anarchy behind for another day.

THANK YOU FOR READING!